Installing actions in Photoshop Elements

I had a lot of questions lately regarding the installation of actions in Elements.  So I think it's time for a little tutorial.  I provide an install .txt or .pdf file with every action set, but since it's only a boring document, (which I admit to not reading myself when I download stuff ) the info gets lost in cyber space :)

Install actions created in Photoshop:

The Action Player in the Automated Actions guided edit can play actions created in Photoshop. Keep in mind that you can only play actions that use features supported in Photoshop Elements. So make sure you select the files listed for _pse in my sets.

Copy the .atn file to the one of the following locations:

Windows XP

C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Application Data\Adobe\Photoshop Elements\8.0\Locale\en_US\Workflow Panels\actions

Vista

C:\ProgramData\Adobe\Photoshop Elements\8.0\Locale\en_US\Workflow Panels\actions

The next time you start Photoshop Elements, the action will appear in the Automated Actions guided edit menu.  Note that here the path is for Elements 8.0, like highlighted, but the same path applies for 6.0 & 7.0

When that is done you should see the name of the set in the SET box and under it in the ACTION box you should have a drop down menu with all of the actions included in the set. You select the action you want to play and press play.

Just like in this screenshot

However, if you decide you want to use the Photo Effects folder method to store your actions, I do not provide at this time the thumbnails for them.  You will see a dark thumbnail, but the action will run.  Though I am not sure you will get all the actions in the sets, since all of my actions are organized in sets.  In order to run all of the actions in the set, you need to use the ACTION PLAYER.  You will only get the first action from the set if you use the Photo Effects folder. 

So, if you had trouble so far getting all of your actions from the sets, try deleting them fom the Photo Effects folder and re-upload them to the "Actions" folder.  Remember to have a copy of the original sets you downloaded somewhere on your hard drive and work via a copy of it instead of moving the files into Elements, this way you are making sure whatever bug happens in Elements, you keep a copy of your actions.

**  If you are an Elements 5 or 6 user and don't have the Action Player feature, I am working on uploading every action and it's thumbnail individually.  As soon as most of them are available online, I'll post the download link.**

Have fun playing!

Understanding the Exclusion blending mode - Or getting a Retro or Vintage haze on your images

Many of you probably know by now that adding a solid blue color adjustment layer and blend it in exclusion mode to around 40% will give you a vintage haze layer over your image. It's very useful, you can pick any kind of dark blue and see the difference in the resulting tint. But do you know how it works?


What the exclusion mode does is inverting the base color values.
I don't know if you are familiar with the color spectrum and the complementary colors, so here is some basic info. The "true" primary colors are Yellow, Red and Blue (RYB). And the secondary ones a mix of those, so Orange, Green and Violet. That's how I learned my colors when I studied arts. That is when you consider the colors for mixing purposes. BUT our cameras and software have another set of primary colors, the RGB ones, where the mixing of colors in based on how light affects our vision of color.  So for Photoshop purposes, let's stick to the RGB ones :)


So if you look closely at the color spectrum in your software, you'll see that the primary colors are Red, Green and Blue (RGB).  The secondary colors are the colors created by a mix of those primary colors, resulting in Cyan, Magenta, Yellow (CMYK) (remember, we are talking about mixing light, otherwise Red mixed with Green would not produce Yellow...).  The K stands for black. In theory if mixed perfectly Cyan, Magenta,and Yellow should produce Black. In theory, if you have pure colors.  Two colors are called complementary if, when mixed in the proper proportion, they produce a neutral color (grey, white, or black).

The complementary colors are opposite each other in the spectrum. So pure Blue has pure Yellow as opposite, so complementary. Green is complementary to Magenta, and Red to Cyan. Anywhere in between will give a derivative from these colors. I won't go further in naming the tertiary colors and so on... I think you get the point.

We're a long way from where we started, but this info will come in handy in your editing process.

When you select a color in your spectrum in Photoshop, and blend it on Exclusion mode, it will tint your image with it's complementary color. So depending on where you pick your blue, the coloring will go from yellow to orange, just select the tint that pleases you most and reduce opacity. You now have a vintage haze layer.

You can do the same if you want to have a Retro tint. Pick a purple (Magenta) color, and blend it using Exclusion mode, you will get a Greenish tint. Reduce opacity and you get the retro finish.

When you've done it a couple of times, you will know where to pick the Blue or Magenta that suits your images. It's a fast an easy way to get a moody haze on your photo.

Getting the best results out of your Photoshop actions

I had a couple a questions recently about how to load and use actions in Photoshop or Elements, so I thought it was time for a brief tutorial...  Many of my new followers or FB fans are new to actions or editing software, so this is for you :)


Loading the actions :


For loading your actions, if you use Photoshop CS go to your action panel and select "load action"
browse through your files and select the action set, it will be installed instantly.
You then open your photo, and select the set you wish to use in the actions palette. The set will open
and you will see the actions inside the set, select the one you want, then click "Play" at the bottom of
the action panel, and the action will run.


If you are using Photoshop Elements 7, here are the guidelines:
To install the actions into the Action Player, put the .atn file into this folder:


Windows XP
C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Application Data\Adobe\Photoshop Elements\7.0\Locale\en_US\
Workflow Panels\actions


Vista 32 or 64 bit
C:\ProgramData\Adobe\Photoshop Elements\7.0\Locale\en_US\Workflow Panels\actions


For older versions of Elements, if you don't already know how to load them,
please read these infos first:


http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/pselements/qt/actions.htm

Note that it is always safer to save your actions on your drive and load them from there than just adding them to Photoshop.  This way you will always have a backup if something happens with your software.


Editing with the actions:
To get the best results out of the actions, it is recommended that you adjust the action to suit your image exposure or color.  In CS: You can adjust every layer the actions individually, by simply using the opacity slider. Or you can adjust the opacity of the whole group of layers at once, by changing the opacity of the group layer. This way it gives you all the control you need over your editing.  (this applies to my actions, for I know the layers are grouped in a folder, and the layers are never flattened.  For some of the other actions, well, the best designed ones will give you control over your layers, the others, I can't help you with...)  

In Elements: The layers won't be grouped, so you will have to work one layer at a time, but that is not a problem, since it really is the best way to edit your images.

Click on the image to get a larger view

You will notice on the image above, there is the Group of layers, if you play with the opacity slider on this Group layer, you will act on ALL the layers at once.
You can notice there is also a layer mask on the Group layer, using this mask will also apply changes to ALL the layers.

If you work on the Individual layers, your changes will apply to this one and only layer. Adjust opacity or blending modes to your liking.  Sometimes playing with the blending mode is useful too, and don't worry if you messed up and don't remember the original settings, just delete the whole group and play the action again, your image will still be just like before you ran the action.  There are layer masks on most of the individual layers too, it's just another tool to refine your editing, use them if you need, to remove tint or lighting on some particular spot on the image.


Adjusting every layer will really make sure the action suits your image's exposure or saturation.  Sometimes if you run the action and leave it as it is, you might not like what you get, some tint might be too much, the light might not be enough...  It's all part of the fun!  Actions are tested on a lot of photos to make sure they fit most subjects, but as a designer, you never know what image the user will start with.  Actions are designed to make your editing more creative by adding the designer's vision to your photos.  But that doesn't mean it's always a faster way of editing.  It's a different way of editing.  Yes, it might be faster sometimes, the action might just be perfect without adjustment, but don't take it for granted.  Most importantly, you have to add your personal touch to the finished photo, so it keeps your own vision as well.


Have fun playing :)

3 Steps Pop Tutorial

I will share with you one of the easiest way to make a portrait pop, by darkening the background and drawing attention to the face.  3 steps.  That's all there is.  You could use a pop action, but as much as I love actions, sometimes our photos just don't work with them and adjusting every step of the action can take more time than these simple steps.

Open your your photo in Photoshop (CS or Elements, same process)

1-Copy your background layer, blend it using "Multiply", an opacity between 50 to 70% will do.  Add a layer mask and paint with a black brush over the face or subject you want to bring out.  Multiply mode darkens your photo, so you will see the background becoming darker.

2- Copy the layer you just worked on, blend it using "Multiply" again, this time  around 20-30% opacity.
The layer will already have it's layer mask painted, so no need to do it again, just adjust opacity to your liking.

3- Merge layers if you wish to edit your photo further.

That's it!  You can do the same thing for brightening a photo using "Screen" mode or "Soft light" mode.
It really works better than playing with exposure and risking adding noise to a photo.
On the layout below you will see from original to last step, subtle and natural darkening, just enough to bring attention.
Have fun playing with your software!

In black and white...

I find Photoshop's automatic black and white conversions so dull...
I think it's worth the two minutes you will take to get a custom black and white conversion that will suit your style. The automatic ones, will have too much grey for my taste, they are too conventionally formatted to please the majority of users. I like the black, really black, and to achieve it, simple steps, that will take you no more than two minutes, are needed.

First, I desaturate, it will give you almost the same b&w range than the automated conversion. Then, you just adjust the curves to your liking, having the black darker, the white, whiter (it softens the image) and the whole picture will get a more intense, dramatic conversion. You can save your custom curve too, if you have a batch of pictures with the same lighting conditions to edit, it will be faster to process! You can also use some b&w actions, some are really amazing, and it's a fast way to get your b&w conversion, lighting and contrast adjusted in a click. But, doing your own custom conversion, is really easy too, and, you have more control over your editing.

For the love of webs...

Spider webs covered in dew drops have been a long time favorite of mine. I've always been attracted to their delicate patterns and to all the tiny jewels that clung to them! But capturing them isn't always easy. So many drops, and a shallow DOF means you have to sacrifice focus on some parts of the web... That's where your own personality will decide what you will select as your main focal point.

As for processing, I think, and it's good for all nature shots, that nature has to be processed in order to keep it's essence. A subtle action, texture or added saturation/contrast is good. Unless you want to create something really artistic. Go subtle or all the way, but not in between. That's my personal opinion though, you will do whatever suits your style! And that's good!

So, for the spiderwebs you will likely have to process them, unless you get really lucky! You can't decide where the spider will build its web, and sometimes you will have a wonderful web, but a really dull background, or really low light conditions. That's where your Photoshop skills come in handy!

Here's three different webs, the first one is straight out of camera, the second was lightly edited, and the third, you can say I chose artistic editing!

No such purple where this web was found!